Thursday, February 12, 2009

Yoda

For as ridiculous as that movie character was -"impressed we are"- what- all that brain power and he couldn't speak in ordinary English? For crissakes- I know guys three weeks in country from Patagonia that speak better English than that. They work harder too but that's for another time- anyways, for as ridiculous as that character was, he/it is the gold standard for the all-knowing deity.

I never met him, or even the actor who played him. But I have been in the presence of true greatness a number of times in my life. Like my first meal at the French Laundry after which I got to speak with Keller in the kitchen for awhile (I almost genuflected). There was a time one of my judo senseis threw me without touching me. That was most yoda-like. I once stopped (in the rain) while walking on a path that ran next to a tall wooden fence. On the other side of the fence one of the greatest guitar players I ever heard ( who is still widely unknown) was sitting under a patio just playing- for himself. I had heard him play many times (studied under him for awhile) but this was another level of greatness.

There have certainly been other "Yoda" moments in my life- more than I could count- because as soon as you embrace the fact that you are really insignificant in the big scheme of things (hell, the small scheme too)- the greatness of those around you becomes visible. And you can embrace it and learn from it. If nothing else you are reminded what an extraordinary journey this is, and that those around us are what make it extraordinary for us- it's not something we necessarily do for ourselves. You just have to be open to seeing it.

And I've been fortunate to know some pretty great guys in wine- some great winemakers- some of whom are widely known and inspire awe, and some of whom are barely known and make incredible wine. But tonight, while I was stopping to pick up some dinner, I ran into a couple winemakers I know. They were sharing a bottle of a Zinfandel and offered me a glass. As we shot the breeze about things, the topic turned to the bottle of wine. We all had great things to say about the winemaker- who is an icon to most winemakers around here. (I'd be uncomfortable naming him as he is quite private)

I had an experience with this guy with one of my early Zins. It was close to bottling, and I was concerned about the back end of the palate- just seemed a bit clipped. I had run all the numbers at the lab one morning. I happened to run into "the guy" downtown (one square block of Healdsburg) and he asked me how my wines were doing. (which is some mark of how great a guy this is- that he actually cared to ask how this beginning winemaker was doing.) I voiced my concerns and he invited me by to talk over the wine.

I got there and we talked awhile, and tasted through about 15 years of his Zins- which were remarkably consistent. I'd have been thrilled to make one of them- let alone all of them, and honored to have a chance to taste through with him.

After awhile, the conversation turned to my wine and we opened it and he poured a couple glasses. He swirled and sniffed, and took a sip. "what's your alcohol on this" he asked, about 15.2%"? Having been to the lab that day I could only nod because it was exactly 15.2% alcohol. He tasted again. "What's your TA" (titratable acidity)? About .62"? I managed to nod, because I felt like I was just staring at him- the wine was exactly .62 TA.

He tasted again. "What's the PH? he asked- about 3.57? I almost fell over- it was exactly 3.57. In that moment I truly understood that what mattered most for a winemaker was his palate- and nothing could trump that. I also learned what years of experience really meant, although it's more than merely time in the saddle- it's constantly learning- and honing your skills.

He suggested a small adjustment (but did it in a most artful and diplomatic way that almost seemed like I had thought of it). Of course, the adjustment made the wine.

I have never seen anyone do that since (I'm sure there are those who can- I just haven't met them). I think our industry, being founded in science, tends to overemphasize an empirical approach to analyzing wine, and it can come at the expense of making your best wine. I like to joke that not having gone to winemaker school, I'm not constrained by the basic rules of fermentation science, and I'm free to fuck up any way I want. Which I frequently do, although I try not to repeat my mistakes.

But I can tell you this- I have made my share of wines, and I've drank my share (and yours). And I've known some great winemakers,a nd had some pretty cool moments around wine. But this was a moment of greatness that transcended a lot of great moments. He's a pretty reserved guy, so when I see him I refrain from calling him Yoda. But if he ever tastes one of my wines and says "impressed we are", I'm gonna start believing in The Force.

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